After a three-hour drive, we got to Greve in Chianti in time for our 3:00pm tour at Castello di Verrazzano, the birthplace of the navigator Giovanni di Verrazzano (which is probably familiar to anyone living in the NY metro area and was the start to the New York City Marathon, than Lance used to run for several years). The beautiful setting and grounds were amazing, complete with a breeding area for the local wild boar. The tour itself was mediocre – the guide started talking whenever he felt like it without waiting for the entire group to join him as we moved around the property, and it generally seemed like he was trying to impress the young ladies in the group without a care for the other participants. What the tour lacked, the tasting made up for. We had some great Chianti Classico and Riserva wines paired with local cheese, bread, olive oil and prosciutto.
For dinner, we went on a bit of a wild goose chase for La Cantinetta di Spedaluzzo, but no luck finding the place. We talked to some locals at a store just up route 222 but nobody had heard of it. After an hour and an adventure in which our car stalled out on a VERY steep hill, we trooped back to Greve for dinner at Bottega del Moro on Piazza Triesta. (We have reached the part of the post where I must disclose that this was where Laura wanted to eat dinner all along. Yes, once every 10 years or so, I *may* be wrong.) The food was local and fresh – as is pretty much everything in Italy – and the server was pleasant. The wine we wanted was not available, nor were We ended up with a Chianti Classico which was priced at three times as much – but they gave it to us for the cheaper price. You can't beat that! The brochettes were huge and flavorful. We had the spaghetti, which was delicious. I had a steak smothered in red sauce and oregano, which was good but not spectacular. We capped the evening with some ice cold limoncello. And as a bonus, we made friends with the American couple seated next to us who not only spoke Italian, but the woman was an alumna of Laura’s college. All in all, it was lovely.
several others.
We stayed for the evening at Castello Vicchiomaggio right on route 222. Vicchiomaggio sits on a knife-like ridge that sticks out into the valley with stunning views of the surrounding Tuscan wine region. We had a magnificent two bedroom, two bathroom split level suite that looked back across the valley at the Castello di Verrazano. The bathrooms were modern and well appointed. The weather was a little cool, so we ended up skipping on the pool. Vicchiomaggio is well located and was a great base to explore the northern Tuscan region. We were welcomed by John and Paola Matta’s (the owners), daughter Delfina Matta. She was a gracious host and made us feel very welcome. Vicchiomaggio is more than just lodging, they also produce fine wines and they have been named Italian Wine Maker of the Year four times.
For many, the Greve in Chianti area is the classic area of Tuscany. One thing was certain for us – we loved the wine here!
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